Broughton power - Recently Updated Pages

History

Anonymous — Fri, 04 Dec 2009 13:10:06 CST

Broughton is a brilliant bouldering wall made even better with the production of the climbing wall/ bouldering guide.

From 1991 onwards
Before the guide was produced many climbers used to go to the wall and do the same old half-dozen problems visit after visit. Occassionally, perhaps, they'd try something new or mix in with someone else and work their problems as well. But, basically, the number of problems many people did was severely limited. Most climbers also tended to play to their strengths and this reduced the effectiveness of the wall as an aid to improving their overall climbing performance.
From about 1994 onwards Dave Johnson organised a number of bouldering competitions at the wall. He marked the holds used on a competition problem with chalk. For weeks, sometimes months, after each comp activists would add the chalk marked problems to their regular repertoire. When the chalk rubbed off, or the problems were changed for another comp, apart from a few rare exceptions, the problems became lost.

From 1996
Dave Hinton had the idea of numbering each hold so problems could be recorded. Showing surprising initiative, he single handedly numbered and, after some discussion, also named sectors 1 to 3. He left sector 4 considering it of little value as a training aid ("that's for puffs", he said). Once the numbers and letters were in place he gave as many people as he could get hold of a blank grid and asked them to record all the problems they knew. These problems then formed the basis of the original guide.
The original guide had 65 problems from 5b to 6c+ as well as the two traverses known as The Big One and The Little One. The hardest problem, and the one and only 6c+ at that time, was the sequence: A, B, V, 84, Bar, with only smears and named holds for feet, on sector 2. It was first done by Tony Ryan when he was a member of the British competition team. The Big One traverse was first done by Ian Vickers, on sight, in a head-to-head final to separate the winners at one of Dave Johnson's comps. Ian was the only competitor to complete the route. An awesome feat to achieve, unseen, straight out of isolation and under competition pressure. Later, Guy Maddox used to use it to warm up on!
Recording problems also threw up a number of interesting issues. For instance, what exactly is a smear and is it in anyway different from a feature? How do you specify what constitutes a legitimate sitting or seated start? Believe it or not we actually discussed these, and other issues, while we climbed at the wall until arriving at solutions which satisfied everyone (well, almost everyone anyway!).

From 1998
Next, Dave Hinton turned his attention to the woodie in the climbing cellar. This feature had been built in 1995 by Dave Johnson and friends. Each hold had originally been given a name. Some of them were quite long, some funny, some provocative even. Each hold's name was written in felt tip somewhere near to it on the overhanging board. This made recording and finding a problem quite a difficult and lengthy process, but people managed. Initially, problems were recorded in a school exercise book kept in the cellar until it disappeared.

At around the same time as a new, thicker, book was kindly donated to record woodie problems in, Dave Hinton started to revamp the facility. He made some new holds and plundered some from the systems board in the main hall built by Dave Marsh. He also devised and implemented a simpler hold numbering system based on the system used on the main wall. The changes were not universally welcomed but most people agreed they were for the best. Moreover, The new system, based on numbers rather than names, certainly made recording and finding problems much easier.

It was also decided that as the British technical grading system wasn't fine tuned enough to reflect the variety and difficulty of the problems on the woodie the Hueco V grading system would be used instead. Problems on this facility are still predominently assigned V grades. For simplicity, problems on the woodie are recorded in their own section in the guide.

From 2000
In 2000 Colin Struthers and Pete Cahill numbered up sector 4 on the right-hand side of the main wall. Almost instantly this added another 100 or more problems to the guide. As sector 4 is set at a much easier angle than the other sectors it also opened up a whole new range of problem types with a whole new range of movement possibilities. Interestingly, the grades on this sector are the ones most often disputed. This is probably because many people are unused to doing, and grading, serious problems on this sector and at this angle yet.

Around this time Matt Leigh also recorded the first problem on the campus board - a facility built in 1996 by Dave Johnson. Saddly, the systems board built by Dave Marsh fell into a state of disrepair. There are, however, tentative plans to resurrect it in a new position in the main climbing hall - ask Dave (Chippy) Hinton for details.
With a guide to tick through the wall became increasingly re-envigorated. Attendance figures started to rise while on the various walls and facilities people started to look for new problems to fill the obvious gaps. Very many climbers, with vastly differing climbing styles and strengths, have now visited the wall and added new problems to the guide, not just the local activists. That is why there is such a wide range of problems and movement types to be found in the guide. This encourages climbers who use the guide to develop a greater range of movement skills and techniques to add to their perhaps previously restricted repertoire of moves. On top of this, the sheer number of problems that came to be recorded also encouraged creative climbers to develop new and different training methods, strategies and systems. One such strategy was the recent introduction of a fun winter bouldering competition based on 25 problems picked randomly from the guide run by none other than that man Dave Hinton!

These are just some of the reasons why the Broughton guide is such an excellent document and training aid. Additionally, and by way of a huge compliment to a great idea, a number of other walls have now started to number holds in the style of Broughton. Some have even adopted the Broughton guide format for recording and disseminating problems.

The dissemination of the guide has been an evolving process. Initially, Dave Hinton simply passed round photo-copies of the original guide to anyone interested. But of course the original guide quickly became out of date as new problems were identified. Mike Gennaro offered to update the guide and even ran spiral bound copies off to hand out at the wall. Mike also copied the guide on to floppy disc for a few people. One of these was Ian Patterson; he then emailed the guide to those able to receive email at that time. Later still Mike handed over the recording of problems to Nick Colton and as more and more people came to have access to email he built up a list of those who wanted the guide emailed to them and sent them updates as they became available.

The guide first went on the internet in 1999 when it was put on Nadim (Sid) Siddiqui's site megagrip.co.uk. In 2001 it was also put on Carl Dawson's Kirklees climbing site. In late 2001 big Pete Cahill took over the job of recording new problems on the guide. He also registered the domain name broughtonwall.co.uk for the purpose of having somewhere to place the guide where it could be continually updated, which would also serve as a focus for information about Broughton climbing wall.

From 2007

A finger board was purchased and mounted on the free standing boulder with thanks to all those who took part in a series of friendly comps. A total of £75 was raised.

www.broughtonwall .co.uk falls into disrepair. The Wiki is the online face of Broughton.

The room where the old cellar once resided was used as a store room for the sports centre hence the cellar became unusable mainly because it was dismantled and stacked up against a wall.
After many suggestions from regulars who missed the old cellar, it was finally rebuilt in the main hall. The free standing boulder was shifted to a more central location making enough room to comfortably swing a brush on a stick. The cellar was reset and a new guide is now currently being built up.

2009

New campusing rungs have replaced the old home-made ones. Set at a 'regulation' 20cm spacing too.

In winter 2009, Dave Hinton began making pockets as a sweet addition to the small holds already on.

The free standing boulder may now be dismantled and be restructured up against the last remaining free wall. A frequently used doorway had been blocked over so plans have been scheming for a while.

Plans for the old defunct systems board are been schemed.

Home

Anonymous — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 04:55:42 CST

Welcome to Broughton Wall

It's 2009. And against all odds Broughton climbing wall still continues to be the best training venue around. Defying the steady march of housing development, this little corner of inner city Manchesta is just what your fingers need to whip them into shape. Yes. You can go and drink lattes at MCC and look at the Czech girls. Yes. You could shiver on slopers in Stockport. God forbid, you could even head East and make those Climbing Works boys even richer.

But you know where you should be. So what are you waiting for? Download Nick's very latest problem list and get ticking.

Otherwise you'll be weak forever.

NEWS FLASH!

A pocket frenzy is in full effect on the cellar board.....Dave's carpentry skills are producing a family of tweaky little fellows, which are much needed on the board. Only a few more undercuts and gaston's needed to complete a quality training facility.

The huge boulder has been sorted out by Dave Hinton, some minging pinches and slopey slaps serve as an antidote to sector 3.
The campus board has new (proper bo) rungs.

The 45 board has been "De-Jugged" and all the larger footholds removed. Don't despair though! The jugs have been replaced by a selection of minging crimps and the new footholds are barely adequate. This partial reset will render the current (small) collection of problems redundant. A new book will be placed when the reset is complete for recording problems.

PS. These pages are open to all for editing, just click EasyEdit in the left hand corner and get going. Just don't delete that problem sheet...

New problems

Anonymous — Sun, 08 Nov 2009 15:40:19 CST

After a few visits, you'll want some new fingers and the latest problem list. When you've ticked all those(!), you might want to create some more:

NEW PROBLEM LIST

NO.	WALL(Original Cellar Boulder)	SECTOR	GRADE	HOLD SEQUENCE	SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS	BY
	Original	3	6b	I, 21, FA, 20, 17,W, 74,106, Top	Sit Start	Mummra
	Original	3	?(proj)	I,21,FA,17,38,56	Sit Start	Mummra
	Original	2-3	6b+ (F7b/7b+)	Sector 2: Tufa (Matched), A, 3, E, G, 12, MA, 25, Q,........into...................... Sector 3: Tufa, 2, 10, Y,54, 56, 74, 106, Top.		Mummra
	Original	2-3	6b+ (F7c+)	match on 18, O, 23, tufa match,O,13, (rest on 13 and O),2,10,5,10, 8,15,19A, 38, 44, 56, 95, 104, 73, 107 top (replicating close as possible to baboo baboo crux)	no matching on sector 3, smears for feet on sector 3 after IA,7C,(i.e IB,6A,8A,EA,)(Start using problem 1106 for 8a tick (27 moves))	TIMB
	Original	3	?(proj 6C/+)	22, 19A, rock 24A, bottom flake (RH only),(LH) K, (RH) 20,(LH) 44,RH top flake, reach 95 off footholds 23 and 23c.. (replicating Straightened start)	no matching.	TIMB
1117b	Original	3	6C+?(proj)	24A,24B,N,23B,31,W,76,92,88,85 (more hard shouldery moves added as a hard finish to the 6C problem which finishes 31,52)	no matching	TIMB
	Original	3	6b (F 7a+/b circuit) every lap adds a grade!	Arete, 26, T, H, 20, 17 19A, 38, 56, 77, 93, 83, 82, 62, C, 36, 55, 53, 74, 106, then descend right hand arete feet off flakes hands on arete only - another lap sir?	No vomiting	Mummra
	Original	1-2	6b (F 7a+ sector 2 only ) F 7b the lot	Sector 1: 9A, 9B, B, 11, C, 14, Tufa .... ...into............... Sector 2: 3, 31, 44, RA, 15 and 15A, M, Q, 61, 67, 108, Top		Mummra
	Original	1-2	6b (F 7b)	Sector 1: 9A, 9B, B, 11, C, 14, Tufa .... ...into............... Sector 2: 3, 31, 44, RA, 27, 56, 69, 100, Top		Mummra
	Original	2	6a+	11, 27, 40, 38, Y, 67, 101, Top	Sit Start	Mummra
	Original	2	F 7a	Tufa, 3, 31, 44, RA, 27, 40, 38, Y, 67, 101, Top		Mummra
	Original	3	6b (F 7b/+)	Arete, 26, T, H, 20, 17 19A, 38, 56, 77, 93, 83, 82, 62, C, 2, 10, Y, 54, 56, 75, 106, 112, 110, then descend right hand arete feet off flakes hands on arete only. Juicier and more powerful finish than earlier circuit. ~ 24 moves		Mummra
1117a	Original	3	6c	24A, 24B, N, 23B, 31, W, 76,100 Top	sit start, more solid 6c version of the original problem	TIMB
	Original	1,2,3	F8a	Pockets circular (long version) into The Big One	no rest when returning to starting arete	James R
	Original	3	6b (F7b+/c)	Arete, 26, T, H, 20, 17 19A, 38, 56, 77, 93, 82, 62, C, 12, 14, 16,17, 20, 31, 45, 68, 86,102, Top	Link up of two UK 6b problems. Pumpy. from 12 onwards is as: "Little One"	Mummra
	Original	3	6b (Proj.)	Link : 7, F, J, W, 95, 106, 112, 110, then descend arete into above problem!		Mummra
	Original	2	6c	18, 27, 41, 55, 96, Bar	Sit Start. (Same problem but no matching on any hold is 6c+)	Mummra

Notes
Almost all problems use anything for feet. Some specify only smears. As a result people rarely do ones with marked feet only.
Use GB tech grades for main wall. V grades for cellar? Sport for Traverses.

Opening times

Anonymous — Tue, 03 Nov 2009 04:55:46 CST

The Temple of power is open:

Mon -Thurs : 9:30 - 21:30
Fri : 9:30 - 14:30
Sat & Sun : 9:00 - 15:30

Xmas 2008
Closes Tuesday 23rd December (Closes normal time)
Opens Monday 5th January 2009

Admission to Wall is now £4-70 per session (Jan 09) Monthly passes are available at £25, which are fantastic value if are a regular user
A weights room is now open in the adjacent room, and passes for weights and wall can be bought also for a little more than climbing only.
Please check with the wall on 0161 736 6206 or 0161 792 2375.

Training ideas

Anonymous — Thu, 20 Aug 2009 16:57:41 CDT

Done all the problems you can do and not getting any better? You're suffering from chronic weakness - You need a bit of training. Here are a few ideas to get you cranking:

5x5s
Do 5 reps of 5 problems. Rest for 2 minutes between each rep and 10 minutes between each set.

Pull harder c'mon put some effort in!

Campus boarding

Get on the 45 and start cranking!

Weight belts

Weird supplements and powders - lots of powders.

The fingerboard

The traverses

Handy links to training articles:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

If you don't train then this awaits:

http://www.fiftyplusnorthantsadventureclub.org.uk/rock-climb-07w.jpg

Getting there

alex.messenger — Mon, 14 Jan 2008 12:25:52 CST

Broughton climbing wall

Broughton Recreation Centre
Camp Street,
Salford,
M7 1ZT
0161 792 2375

Street map

Broughton Four

alex.messenger — Mon, 14 Jan 2008 12:15:38 CST

The Broughton Four are currently the hardest and most gnarly problems at Broughton Wall. No one has yet willingly admitted to doing all four.
For the purpose of this short piece I've given the four problems names (apologies) to the First Ascentionist's The problems are described from Left to Right.

The "Anvil" *
Problem (826) at time of writing.

3, 6, 11, 10A, 13A, 39, 61
This is probably the easiest of the Broughton four and is very much reach dependent.
Basically it entails cranking the undercut with a long/reach slap for the finishing hold.

The "Curse of the Mumie" ***
Problem (828) at time of writing.

6A, 8A, 10A, D (left side only, no top), 34A, 40, 60
The original Broughton Problem.
Nice crimping and a powerful shoulder press rockover. Easier if an Egyptian is used.

"Matt's Problem" ***
Problem (829) at time of writing.

5, 6, 32A, 32B, 40, 60A, 83, Top

Powerful shoulder moves allow the finishing holds to be attained.

The "Obliterator" **
Problem (827) at time of writing.

IA, 21, 19A, 19B, 15, 43, 38, 41
Powerful fingery/shoulder moves leading HOPEFULLY to the finish.
Easier if an Egyptian and the BIG flake (for feet) are used.

All the problems start seated with both hands on the starting holds, one mat from the floor eg NO BOUNCING.

Several interesting Link/Problems remain.

The Oblitorator into Matt's problem, or the Curse into Matt's.
The author accepts no responsibility for the above, just Crank.
A final warning, all problems require excellent conditions eg a minor ice age and good quality skin and dare I say Broughton Power.
- Dangerous Dave Johnson.

Grades

alex.messenger — Mon, 14 Jan 2008 12:09:32 CST

The grading of climbs is a fascinating subject. It's always been a difficult, and sometimes even an emotive issue. There appears to be no easy solutions to the problems that gradings throw up. At least none which pleases everyone all the time. Bearing that in mind the following explains the grades which are used at Broughton as well as how individal problems are graded, and sometimes regraded.

Grading systems used
Problems on the main climbing wall are all given British technical grades (5b, 6a+, etc). A few, longer, endurance type, problems and traverses are also given a French sportclimb grade (F6c, F7a+, etc) in addition to their British technical grade. These longer traverses are recorded in a separate section in the guide. Very ocassionally (ie only once or twice) a first ascentionist has also indicated a Fontainbleau bouldering grade for a problem (Font 7c, etc). These gradings have also been included. In addition, some problems have also been ascribed a British technical grade by the first ascentionist and these too have been retained. Now that the cellar is back, V grades might make another appearance too...

Comparison of grading systems
As you might expect, there is no straightforward comparison between different grading systems. However, as with all things in climbing, people do have a go at drawing comparisons. Such comparisons are liable to be a little fluid, and do change from time to time. However, one of the best comparison tables as well as an informative discussion of the issues involved is to be found on the Rockfax site. Click here for a link to their grades comparison table.

How grades are assigned at Broughton
In the first instance, the grade a problem is assigned is given by the first ascentionist. Any climber can do a new problem at Broughton. All they do is pass the hold sequence, its sector(s), its grade, and any special instruction (whether it has a seated start, etc) to the person currently recording and updating the guide - This is big Pete Cahill. Send any ammendments Once a problem appears in the guide then everyone who wants to can have their say, and many do, on the grade of a problem. It is not unusual for someone to say to the guide book recorders that they can do all the problems up to and including all the 5c+'s but they can't do a particular problem which is only given 5c. The problem is then looked at with a view to assigning it a new grade. A number of people are asked their view on the matter and a tentative new grade offered - in this case 6a. If the majority of people asked agree, and it might be anyone at the wall at the time, then the problem is regraded on the next update of the guide. The situation can happen in reverse, and it did to Mike Gennaro when he was guide book recorder. He happened to mention to a group at the wall that although he mainly climbed in the Broughton 6a to 6a+ range he had actually managed to do a 6b problem - and only one, as he couldn't find anymore he could do. Accordingly, the problem was looked at and eventually, much to Mike's dismay, downgraded to 6a+. Some first ascentionists genuinely have no idea of the grade of a problem. Others, on the other hand, are so accustomed to a particular sort of move and find it so easy they expect others will too. There are instances of people originally recording problems at 5c only to find that their grade evolves upwards over time such that they are now given 6c! So if you find a problem which you think is significantly misgraded, drop big Pete an email - but, before you do, be sure to look at the latest update of the guide first incase it's already been amended.