The grading of climbs is a fascinating subject. It's always been a difficult, and sometimes even an emotive issue. There appears to be no easy solutions to the problems that gradings throw up. At least none which pleases everyone all the time. Bearing that in mind the following explains the grades which are used at Broughton as well as how individal problems are graded, and sometimes regraded.

Grading systems used
Problems on the main climbing wall are all given British technical grades (5b, 6a+, etc). A few, longer, endurance type, problems and traverses are also given a French sportclimb grade (F6c, F7a+, etc) in addition to their British technical grade. These longer traverses are recorded in a separate section in the guide. Very ocassionally (ie only once or twice) a first ascentionist has also indicated a Fontainbleau bouldering grade for a problem (Font 7c, etc). These gradings have also been included. In addition, some problems have also been ascribed a British technical grade by the first ascentionist and these too have been retained. Now that the cellar is back, V grades might make another appearance too...

Comparison of grading systems
As you might expect, there is no straightforward comparison between different grading systems. However, as with all things in climbing, people do have a go at drawing comparisons. Such comparisons are liable to be a little fluid, and do change from time to time. However, one of the best comparison tables as well as an informative discussion of the issues involved is to be found on the Rockfax site. Click here for a link to their grades comparison table.

How grades are assigned at Broughton
In the first instance, the grade a problem is assigned is given by the first ascentionist. Any climber can do a new problem at Broughton. All they do is pass the hold sequence, its sector(s), its grade, and any special instruction (whether it has a seated start, etc) to the person currently recording and updating the guide - This is big Pete Cahill. Send any ammendments Once a problem appears in the guide then everyone who wants to can have their say, and many do, on the grade of a problem. It is not unusual for someone to say to the guide book recorders that they can do all the problems up to and including all the 5c+'s but they can't do a particular problem which is only given 5c. The problem is then looked at with a view to assigning it a new grade. A number of people are asked their view on the matter and a tentative new grade offered - in this case 6a. If the majority of people asked agree, and it might be anyone at the wall at the time, then the problem is regraded on the next update of the guide. The situation can happen in reverse, and it did to Mike Gennaro when he was guide book recorder. He happened to mention to a group at the wall that although he mainly climbed in the Broughton 6a to 6a+ range he had actually managed to do a 6b problem - and only one, as he couldn't find anymore he could do. Accordingly, the problem was looked at and eventually, much to Mike's dismay, downgraded to 6a+. Some first ascentionists genuinely have no idea of the grade of a problem. Others, on the other hand, are so accustomed to a particular sort of move and find it so easy they expect others will too. There are instances of people originally recording problems at 5c only to find that their grade evolves upwards over time such that they are now given 6c! So if you find a problem which you think is significantly misgraded, drop big Pete an email - but, before you do, be sure to look at the latest update of the guide first incase it's already been amended.