Broughton Four
The Broughton Four are currently the hardest and most gnarly problems at Broughton Wall. No one has yet willingly admitted to doing all four.
For the purpose of this short piece I've given the four problems names (apologies) to the First Ascentionist's The problems are described from Left to Right.
The "Anvil" *
Problem (826) at time of writing.
3, 6, 11, 10A, 13A, 39, 61
This is probably the easiest of the Broughton four and is very much reach dependent.
Basically it entails cranking the undercut with a long/reach slap for the finishing hold.
The "Curse of the Mumie" ***
Problem (828) at time of writing.
6A, 8A, 10A, D (left side only, no top), 34A, 40, 60
The original Broughton Problem.
Nice crimping and a powerful shoulder press rockover. Easier if an Egyptian is used.
"Matt's Problem" ***
Problem (829) at time of writing.
5, 6, 32A, 32B, 40, 60A, 83, Top
Powerful shoulder moves allow the finishing holds to be attained.
The "Obliterator" **
Problem (827) at time of writing.
IA, 21, 19A, 19B, 15, 43, 38, 41
Powerful fingery/shoulder moves leading HOPEFULLY to the finish.
Easier if an Egyptian and the BIG flake (for feet) are used.
All the problems start seated with both hands on the starting holds, one mat from the floor eg NO BOUNCING.
Several interesting Link/Problems remain.
The Oblitorator into Matt's problem, or the Curse into Matt's.
The author accepts no responsibility for the above, just Crank.
A final warning, all problems require excellent conditions eg a minor ice age and good quality skin and dare I say Broughton Power.
- Dangerous Dave Johnson.
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